Fermentation Fever
Sauerkraut and kimchee are the new health foods
Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture dishes up the kraut.
Photograph by Victoria Alexander
Spicy kimchee, stinky cheese, pickled sauerkraut, protein-rich kefir, sour pickles, and earthy miso: These century-old foods, eaten all around the globe, have more in common than their pronounced flavor and preserved quality. They’re alive with good-for-you bacteria, created through the process of fermentation.
Fermentation occurs when friendly bacteria break down carbohydrates in anaerobic (airtight) conditions. These bacteria change the chemistry of the food—many say for the better. While at least one type of fermented or cultured food has been consumed for centuries by just about every culture in the world, many Americans are just now catching on to the benefits of fermentation.
In his book Wild Fermentation, author Sandor Ellix Katz discusses the history of fermented foods, which were once a much larger part of human diets. Because the fermentation process preserves food for long periods of time, people ate them on a regular basis without realizing the beneficial chemistry behind them.
“Fermentation organisms produce alcohol, lactic acid, and acetic acid—all ‘bio-preservatives’ that retain nutrients and prevent spoilage,” Katz writes.
Live bacteria, such as Lactobacilli, which are present in cultured dairy products like kefir and yogurt, aid in the fermentation process to break down these foods so they are more easily digested. They are also nutrient-rich. According to Katz, “As they go through their life cycles, microbial cultures create B vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, niacin, thiamin, and biotin.”
Besides the vast nutritional advantages, fermented foods taste good. The robust and complex flavors found in these foods make them addictive. Fans of Korean food would never forgo a side of kimchee with their dinner. Those who can’t eat a hot dog without sauerkraut heaped on top are dedicated converts to fermented food.
Santa Cruz-based Farmhouse Culture makes fresh, raw, organic sauerkraut the old-fashioned way—fermented—without the aid of vinegar brine, sugar, or sulfites. Unlike most commercially produced sauerkraut, theirs is unpasteurized, keeping gut-friendly bacteria alive, and retaining nutrients. Owner and kraut maker Kathryn Lukas says she became interested in making sauerkraut after she first tried it in Germany, where she owned a restaurant.
“I learned how to ferment at a natural chef program several years ago here in Santa Cruz. I am interested in traditional methods of preserving a region’s seasonal abundance, and fermentation is the oldest and most nutrient-dense method of preservation,” Lukas says.
Lukas sells her uniquely flavored sauerkrauts, such as apple-fennel and smoked jalapeño, at the Campbell, Sunnyvale, and Palo Alto Farmers’ Markets, among others.
You don’t have to be a creative trained chef to make fermented food at home. In fact, it’s quite easy and inexpensive. All you need are some airtight glass containers, a starter culture, some raw ingredients, and a little patience.
A number of online resources can get you started:
• lucyskitchenshop.com Lucy’s Kitchen Shop sells yogurt starters and yogurt makers.
• leeners.com This site is chock full of homemade starter kits for sourdough bread, root beer and ginger beer, pickles, hard cider, cheese, and more.
• biosupply.com A great source for Harsch brand fermentation crocks and other useful accessories.
